September 2009

September already and our European Grand Tour with Gail and Tom from Colorado had finally arrived! First stop London and it soon became apparent that castles and palaces were going to be major themes.
Greenwich Palace was originally built by Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester around 1440 and was the birthplace of the future Henry VIII in 1491. Both Mary and Elizabeth Tudor were also born here. The first palace was replaced and expanded continually in the 16th-19th centuries. Queen Anne of Denmark’s House was started in 1616 (Inigo Jones). The Royal Naval Hospital was purpose built for retired seamen from 1696 (Sir Christopher Wren). The first Royal Naval College opened here in 1873 after the closure of the hospital. The Royal Naval College moved to Dartmouth in Devon in 1905 although it was already a training base using two old and overcrowded, wooden hulks.

The City of London viewed from Greenwich Observatory
Greenwich Palace complex with modern Canary Wharf behind across the Thames
Queen Anne of Denmark's House with Greenwich Observatory on the hill above

Our time in London included visits to Kensington Palace, The British Museum, The Royal and Ancient Hospital of St Bartholomew and its former Medical College where the Skipper trained and the canal system near Canary Wharf. We also ate at lots of ethnic restaurants which would be difficult to find in Colorado.
Our next stop on our Grand Tour was my sister’s Martello Tower in Felixstowe, Suffolk on the east coast of England. We started to explore the options for berthing Lady Of Lorien after our return and decided to continue the castles theme.
Orford has a magnificent castle built by Henry II between 1165 and 1173 to counteract the influence of Hugh Bigod of Framlingham and other turbulent Suffolk barons. It was very successful and it is amazing how complete the polygonal keep remains inside and out although the surrounding fortifications have disappeared.

A small part of the Painted Hall where Nelson's body lay in state
The beautiful and unusual, polyganol keep
The altar in the chapel

English Heritage now provides a wonderful audio commentary to tour the castle and this gives enormous detail which really enhances the visit. We have been coming here since we had young children and this is the first time this has been available. Fantastic! Gail and Tom were bowled over by the depth of history and the age of the site.
The inside of the castle has many well preserved rooms and corridors including the original well in the basement which was essential to its security. One completely unique feature is a urinal in the wall of the constable’s chamber so that he could relieve himself easily in the night!

Gail, Angie and Tom all wrapped up in the audio commentary in the main hall of the keep
The ovens in the main kitchen

The town of Orford is as old as the castle and was an important port. It is now a tourist attraction above all else and has two establishment selling sea and smoked foods prepared on site. We stocked up with great smoked foods and gourmet eating was definitely another theme...

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