May 2006
The faulty bridge north of Charleston was opened by a gang of men winding handles with great effort - no wonder it was only opening three times a day! There was a large crowd of yachts and motor boats all waiting in both directions and the priority with current regulation seemed to be forgotten by many. Initially the route was parallel to the coast but then worked inland again.
Our first alligator sighting was just outside the entrance to Alligator Creek. We wondered if he knew... We later heard from local yachtsmen that the bigger alligators were a hazard in marinas and had been know to take dogs from the pontoons. They can be out of the water and on to the pontoon with one swish of the tail! (Great fuss in Florida because of three human fatalities from alligator attacks!) Big ones are usually ‘re-homed’.

Lady travelling north again after her stay in Charleston
Our first alligator seen near the mouth of Alligator Creek
The lower reaches of the Wacamaw River
Beginning the change to cedar swamp
All cedar swamp now

As we went inland we joined the Wacamaw River which has to be one of the most beautiful on the east coast. It is deep and the forest is thick on both banks initially, turning to dense cedar swamp as you go upstream. There was a complex network of channels going off through the swamp and following the markers accurately was essential. We had never seen so many osprey nests and that must reflect the state of the food chain.

A great blue heron hunting amongst the water lilies
Idyllic anchorage near the top of the Wacamaw River surrounded by the sounds of the cedar swamp

The day was incredibly hot and steamy as you might expect with southern swamps. With the bimini up to keep the sun off we kept as cool as we could. Our anchorage for the night was behind an island in a little channel lined with water lilies in bud. There was constant bird activity and noise reminiscent of the jungle.
We linked up with some US sailors for pre-dinner drinks and nibbles and learned that the ‘pontoon bridge’ would dominate our next day’s progress up the coast, with limited openings.

The canals north of the Wacamaw are steadily being developed in the style of northern Florida and it is sad to see the cedar swamp decimated here.
There is an interesting section of the ICW before the pontoon bridge and this is known as the ‘Rockpile’. The canal has been cut through solid rock formations and is too narrow to pass barges.

Approaching the pontoon bridge...
...and passing through
Some of the rock formations visible in the Rockpile

Before entering this area you have to announce your presence on VHF to be sure no commercial traffic will coincide with your transit. The tide was low and rocks clearly pushed into the channel on both sides. Another yacht followed us through but that was all. There were barges and pushers around so we were lucky.

The pontoon bridge was indeed a unique item. The centre span floats between the piers on either side and has two road sections that can be lifted or lowered to meet the road. The pontoon is tethered by cables and is winched out of the gap when river traffic is allowed to pass. The cable which pulls it back in place has to be slackened sufficiently to allow it to sink below the passing boats. There is much controversy about its future!

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