March 2007
The Exumas Land and Sea Park covers a group of cays in the central Exumas around Warderick Wells where the Park HQ can be found. Fishing is banned and as a result snorkeling is amazing. There are numerous shallow reefs where varied marine life abounds and where swimming is safe at slack tide.
Mooring balls are being laid to prevent anchor damage and as volunteers we helped splice some of the ropes to be used with them - quite worrying really. They had an offer of free professional help putting the moorings in so they were keen for as many as possible to be completed. Moorings were inexpensive but each day you helped as a volunteer was free.
The main mooring field was in a J-shaped deep water channel bounded by silver sand banks where you could paddle at low tide.

Lady enjoying a reach between the Abacos and Royal Island with her cruising chute
A view of the entrance channel at Warderick Wells from the Park Office

Warderick Wells Cay has had pathways cleared through the dense scrub to allow visitors to explore. The ground is mainly pitted limestone or sand and the former has been weathered to very beautiful but sharp shapes and there are large, deep circular holes everywhere. We saw many lizards and even the odd snake. A native rodent called the hutia (say “hootia”) is abundant and has been a part of local diet in the past.
Around the time of the US War of Independence, loyalist settlers came here rather than submit to the ‘patriot’ rule. The remains of simple stone dwellings can be seen and some of the holes in the limestone were used as wells.
An 18th century dry stone wall runs right across the cay and probably kept livestock confined. The settlers grew crops where they found soil and cleared the scrub. Fish, conch and lobster would have been plentiful then but they also planted crops and kept livestock.

A part of the main mooring field with shallow sandbanks visible - very protected
The remains of an 18th century loyalist dwelling
A 3 foot wide limestone hole - they are everywhere!
This 18th century wall probably kept livestock and crops apart
Sea urchins at the bottom of little limestone pockets in tidal pools
A hollow set back from the coast called the Slave Dip
There are lots of hermit land crabs - two enormous ones live under the park office and one has been given a blue paint job for his shell
Pretty bark effect
Termites are everywhere and these are two tunnels climbing a palm tree - they don't like light
Black mangroves send up aerial roots
Red mangroves put out arching roots
There are lots of lizards looking for a little solar gain
The bananaquits come and sit on your hand around Park HQ where they get fed
They are also happy to raid your boat stores if you fall asleep with the hatch open

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