March 2007
The southern part of Warderick Wells with its sheltered deep water anchorage was the hiding place for Blackbeard and other famous pirates. They could bring their ships into the anchorage and the hulls would be hidden by the outer cays with the masts and rigging blending in with the trees. There is a freshwater well here surrounded by vegetation which is not local. It is thought that the seeds were brought by the pirates in their bedding and belongings.
The island is large and the best way to visit more distant walks is to take your dinghy. Dinghy safety becomes a big issue when you travel several miles and we carry spares, tools, VHF radio, Danforth anchor and long rode as well as oars and fresh water. If your outboard dies you may be faced with large chop, brisk winds and fast tide. Easy to get swept away...

A view of the Exuma Park northern mooring field from the walk across to Boo Boo Hill
John - skipper of buddy boat Misty - crossing the causeway on the way to Boo Boo Hill
The mate sitting amongst the rocks on Boo Boo Hill
This well is found in the pirates' lair at the southern end of the island - fresh rain water drains through the limestone and collects here
The sign at the pirates' lair
A beach at the south western tip of Warderick Wells
Wide shallow bays invite paddling in the heat of the day
Another beautiful beach on the western face of the cay

There are so many spectacular beaches and views around the Park that it is impossible to do them justice. Each walk has its own character and the vegetation varies across the cay. We tended to walk, snorkel and volunteer for different parts of the day and collapse in the evening tired and looking forward to more again the following day.

A view of the southern anchorage used by Blackbeard from the offlying eastern cay which hid the hulls of anchored craft
A large sting ray hunting beneath our boat
These yellow tailed snappers begged food each night - you wouldn't want to feed them by hand!

In the shallow sandy waters it was easy to see the rays hunting. Some of them were huge and often in pairs. They liked the shadows of the moored yachts and drifted in and out over long periods of time.
Yellow tailed snappers appeared each evening around the boats looking to be fed from the nibbles being consumed with the cockpit cocktails.

Everybody visiting the Park has to trek across the causeway and mangrove swamps to climb Boo Boo Hill. The ghosts of a group of missionaries are said to haunt here. Boo boo was the local term for a ghost. At the top stones have been piled into an informal mound where visiting yachtsmen leave autographed driftwood telling of their visit. This point is quite high compared to the rest of the generally flat Bahama islands and a little further north there are a pair of blow holes which expel a rush of air with each large wave.

It is easy to settle here and forget that there are no shops, trash disposal or fresh water supplies. Our watermaker has been a real plus and we were able to supply one of our buddy boats as well as ourselves.
We keep perishable trash separately and return it in sealed bags to the refrigerator as needed. Space is provided by the food consumed. The rest of the trash is compressed as much as possible and stored on deck in plastic bags. Toilet waste goes in the holding tank to be disposed of at sea.
Plans to return north were forming and we were waiting for a weather window to head up the Exumas for more supplies.

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