July 2007
Harper’s Ferry lies at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers. The ferry refers to the first means of transport across the rivers which was established in 1733 by one Peter Stephens. He sold the enterprise to one Robert Harper in 1747 and Harper and others continued to ferry settlers and supplies across until the first bridge was built in 1824.
Harper’s Ferry is also famous for its connection with John Brown. You will remember ‘John Brown’s body lies a-mouldering in the grave’ and ‘Glory, halle-hallelujah!’. We had no clue what the song was really about until this visit but we are ignorant no longer.
It was a bit of a surprise to learn that Maryland was very much on the north-south border in the Civil War, especially with Washington within!

Skipper and First Mate posing on the rocky heights above Harper's Ferry
The shallow and sluggish Potomac River below the confluence
Lots of rafters on rubber rings going slowly east

John Brown was against slavery and formed a plan in 1857 to establish a base in the Blue Ridge Mountains to assist runaway slaves. By 1859 his plans had changed and he and 21 others attacked the federal armoury in Harper’s Ferry. It appears that they hoped that slaves would join their fight but none came.
The insurrection was short-lived and John Brown was captured by federal forces under the leadership of General Robert E Lee. He was tried and executed but his speeches at the trial are said to have inspired many with indignation against slavery. Possibly his actions hastened the onset of the Civil War.
Incidentally, having served as a Union officer, General Robert E Lee fought with the Confederates in the Civil War when he chose to support Virginia’s secession from the Union.

This couple must have swum or waded to this isolated rock as no raft was visible - they were in the more vigorous Shenandoah above the confluence

Much of Harper’s Ferry is now a National Park and quite apart from all the history the setting is amazing. The Potomac River is shallow and slow flowing until just upstream of Washington DC. The Shenandoah is quite different and is deeper, flowing along near the Blue Ridge Parkway which we first travelled in 1977.
The rivers run in deep gorges through the confluence area and there are the remains of old bridge piers to be seen. The railroad running through here is single track but busy and freight trains passed by all day with their characteristic whistle blowing, reminiscent of old Western films.
Our visit was at the weekend and there were lots of tourists in town. The rivers were thick with ‘rafters’ who floated very slowly down through the area, taking many hours. They used ‘rubber rings’ and many even had a ring for the beer cooler!

Many of the rafting groups had separate rubber rings for the beer coolers and picnics - this is an all day trip!
The dry bed of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal with tow path
Ed and Tina enjoying the day out

An entrepreneur tried to link to Chesapeake Bay to the Ohio River by constructing the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal. The dry remains of this are visible to the north of the Potomac and the towpath is now a popular walk. The railroad eclipsed the project before completion.
We had lunch in the town and climbed to a vantage point on the north side of the town to take in the outstanding views of town and rivers.

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