February-4 2008

February 2008

Our first Eleuthera destination was Pineapple Cays off South Palmetto Point Settlement which had attracted us on the way down. On the journey up Exuma Sound we lost a beautiful Mahi Mahi just short of the cockpit which is always upsetting and we were beset by heavy rain squalls in the last couple of hours in the Sound. Our anchorage appeared just before sunset having stopped to refuel en route.
The night proved choppy and we picked up moorings off the town, taking a dinghy in the Government Dock. This turned out to be unusable and we used the beach instead. ‘Government Docks’ are relics of the British Empire in the main and often falling apart due to age, lack of maintenance, poor construction, hurricanes and pilfering. This one was a good example with crumbling concrete and missing timbers. We did not trust the moorings overnight...

South Palmetto Point was sparsely populated and had just one very small general store. We took the road north to North Palmetto Point Settlement about 2 miles away on the Atlantic Coast. About a third of the way along you cross the Queen’s Highway which runs right through the islands and is the main road. North Palmetto Point is much bigger and even has a post office. The Atlantic coast is beautiful and there are a few resorts where we could seek lunch and a beer on a very hot day.
Presumably it is the resorts who bring in income indirectly for the locals but very few of them can be locally owned. Poverty remains an issue even in communities like this where there are a number of slightly larger grocery stores and even the odd hardware, electronics or paint store. Everyone below a certain age seems to be able to afford their mobile (cell) phone but cars look pretty worn generally. We try to spend a little money in the local shops and not just the resorts but it is not always easy.
Our next port of call was Hatchett Bay where we knew there was a very sheltered anchorage with an opening through high limestone cliffs. We had much more success with our fishing over the banks on this trip and caught a 5lb Cero or Painted Mackerel. Very tasty and enough to feed both boats and more.
We had a choppy on-shore wind as we approached the very narrow entrance channel. Somewhat hair raising would describe the process with high limestone walls and rocks in evidence in the water on both sides. Once through there was a pretty bay with very deep water and a good number of mooring buoys.
Going ashore was a bit disappointing as Alice Town was very poor. The chief use for the well maintained large dock became apparent in the evening when a huge catamaran ferry arrived from Nassau and then disgorged lots of cars and people. The clearance in the entrance for this ferry must be minimal!
Next stop Royal Island and back up to Little Harbour in the Abacos the following day. We managed to keep the spinnakers up for fully eight hours on this ocean passage and you don’t get to do that often.
On again to Marsh Harbour to restock the fridge, freezer and liquor cabinet. A good place to ride out a pre-frontal trough as well with its very strong southerly winds and plan our remaining time here.